![]() ![]() © For the latter 5 hours, operate the engine with a partial throttle (within 3/4 throttle opening). In this period, operate the engine with full throttle for about 1 minute at every 10 minutes. ® During the first 10 hours, operate the engine with a partial throttle (within 1/2 throttle opening). 1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION 7 ®During initial 5 minutes, operate the engine at trolling speeds. ~ (Minutes) (Hours) 510 20 30 4,0 I 50 1 m Breaking-in period Operating ® Premixing gasoline &oil Fig. In early stages of break-in operation, the separate fuel tank (23 liters) should be filled with a 50 : 1 gasoline-oil mixture and used in combination with the oil from the oil tank. Adhere to the following treatment referring to the table. ![]() ![]() This initial 15 hours of operation is the critical period. I placed the water tank on a couple of pieces of timber such that the water was just 30mm deeper and then it pumped continuously, and the "pee hole" produced a healthy spurt at idle and at revs, cold and hot.() 0 ) ) ) ) BREAKING-IN Breaking-in period is initial 15 hours. It looked to be deep enough but reality and "looking like" are vastly different in practice. Initially my water pump was probably on borderline with water depth - which meant that it would pump when cold but (I am guessing here) as the exhaust gases built up more pressure within the drive unit casing then the water within it was being forced lower to the point that the pump was no longer effectively immersed. MAKE SURE THAT THE WATER PUMP IN THE LOWER UNIT IS WELL BELOW THE WATERLINE IN THE TEST TANK. My solution was actually quite simple when it all came down to it. If you are reading this then it means that you have experienced a similar problem to the one I described in my earlier posting. Has anyone experienced this scenario before ? What was the issue ?ĭoes anyone have an old DT4 in the junk pile that I could use to dissect and fault-find this one ? I don't really want to discard it so some advice to help make it healthy again would be great. If I let it rotate until the crank is in the exhaust position, air bubbles freely from the base of the motor. I have tried compressed air into the spark plug hole with the crank held in the "firing position" and there are no bubbles coming out of the water jacket as far as I can tell. The whole of the cylinder bore casing is extended to become what would be the head in a normal auto engine. It seems to me that it could be a crack in the head "assembly" but I find that difficult to accept or the motor itself would not idle & run as well as it does. It doesn't spurt out very far but then again, the DT4 only has a small impeller in the pump so I wouldn't expect a gusher.Īll water passages are clear - proven by using water from a hose and by the fact that it pumps when cool. A power drill on the drive shaft to the pump (when separated from the bottom of the drive housing) lower unit causes the water to bubble out of the pump's outlet. So far I have replaced the water pump impeller, the grommet feeding water to the cooling jacket, the gasket from the power head to the drive shaft housing ( and cleaned out the entire water jacket in the whole process ). This was never a problem before - the motor always pumped water well each and every time I used it. Eventually it just peters out to a wisp of steam - then a quick "kill" of the motor is the order of the day to prevent damage. The problem is that the water coming from the "pee hole" is ok when cold but slowly decreases as the motor warms up. The motor starts easily enough and idles just fine. I am now trying to set it up as an auxiliary on my 14ft Clark as a backup to a 35HP Evinrude. I have a DT4 that I bought about 12 years ago and it has had little use. ![]()
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